KTM 950 Adventure Fork Seal Replacement

Tried a few times to use a feeler gauge and clean the seal and it work for a little while before oil started seeping out again.
Have a spare set of fork legs so just swapped to them.

So they have been standing for some time in the garage and leaked just standing there.

Cleaned them up:

Ordered the fork cap tool a while back but have it at a friend who wrenches more so went and got that, he also had some other things to help out but more on that later:

Putting an old triple clamp on it to hold it in place, laying it down and putting a foot on it did the trick to loosen the cap:

Had forgotten to back out the preload so did that:

Pushing the spring down and getting the 22 mm spanner in place was a bit tricky, needed to grind the spanner down some since it was to thick:

After removing the cap the adjustment tube can be lifted out:

Next the spring:

Pored out the oil, pumped the damper rod some to get more out:

Small screwdriver to remove rubber cap underneath:

There are smarter ways to remove the rubber cap that I learnt later on:

19mm socket and an adjustable wrench on the caliper mount for extra leverage when undoing lower cap:

Just push top to the side some to stop it from spinning some more oil came out the bottom:

After that the entire damper rod can be lifted out, seen in the back, some of the oil was quite grey:

Removing dust seal, usually start with a small screwdriver and when having a gap change to a bigger:

A small screwdriver and a dentist torture tool to get the lock ring out:

Also heated it some, still was hard so on the second one I didn’t heat anything and it came out easier so maybe I overheated it:

Still had the extra triple clamp in place to turned it upside down and put my foot on that and pulled the lower leg up:

Apparently they have changed the bushings and distance tube for later models so yours might not have all of this junk:

Cleaned the bottom with a rag and a finger through the hole in the bottom:

Taped the end to protect the seal and used some Ultra Slick Seal lube:

Choose to skip the extra bushing and spacer tube so this is before assembly:

Thought the upper stopper for the extra bushing would cause trouble putting things back together:

But it slid right in so using a seal driver to push the bushing in place:

Some fork oil on the seal and the seal driver to drive it home:

Lock ring, important that it gets seated properly:

Damper rod next:

19 mm socket and torque wrench set on 25Nm, it needs to do the same as when undoing and holding the top in place to stop it from spinning:

Filling it with oil above the holes in the lower leg, pumping the damper rod to work out the air:

After that pumping both damper rod and upper tube.

Suction tool for setting air chamber, I went for 100mm:

A bit tricky getting the damper up inside the spring:

Putting spanner in place and winding the spring to work its way up is the way to do it:

You can get it high enough to get the cap in place:

Pull spanner out push spring down and 24mm socket to torque cap to 25Nm:

Pull tube up and screw cap in place almost done:

Could not find any torque for this but went with the 25Nm using the fork cap tool:

Parts list:

• 2x 48600429s LEADING BUSH 48X52X12+8MM
• 2x 48600428 DU-BUSH D47XD49X20DDL02
• 2x 48600399 OIL SEAL RING 48X57,8X9,5

Might be other parts that work also but these are the parts I used.

Was some trouble with the rebound adjuster not working as it should so had to tear them apart again and look over the rebound valve.